...gaga over the urban.

Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Are our Cities Looking the Same?

A budding urban industrial area; Photo: Sanchita C

Mad traffic rush that has grown rapidly in a city once known for its trees and gardens but subsequently caught by surprise at this rapid development, car stickers and banners proudly proclaiming their support for Anna Hazare and sprawling malls and new buildings – could be any Indian city or town in the present time.

In fact, I was driving around (rather being driven around) in an SUV in Bangalore last week. While I was listening to my friend listing out the problems the city - rather citizens of the city - are facing, it struck me I could be in any city in India. The problems would be similar, so could be the look and feel of the place.

Can you tell the city?; Photo: Sanchita C
many such buildings come up every year; Photo: Sanchita C
As if urban deities (are there any?) have decided that Indian cities shall grow in harmony in the 21st century (albeit haphazardly) - for good or bad. Honestly I can’t say any longer whether I like any city more than another because characteristic distinctions between the cities of India  seem to be vanishing rapidly.

Or are they? Well culturally yes (my very personal view of course) but not necessarily politically (different cities have specific political mindsets) or economically (some cities have more of certain industries or economic activities than the others, some are more prosperous).


Bangalore 'skyline'; Photo: Sanchita C 

After Bangalore, I was in Kolkata and after that Delhi. By the end of the journey, I was even more convinced differences are evaporating – people dress up the same way, speak a kind of urban Indian lingo (same words, same expressions), buildings have similar architecture etc. I have not decided yet whether it is for good or bad. Do we really want a highly harmonised society in all respects?


What do you think? 


Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Those like us - Calcutta blogs

One of the symptoms of disguised unemployment is to be observed in the propensity to create lists. In that not so distant future, when our words will be considered wisdom, economists (sweet revenge!) will count the number of lists on the internet, to predict imminent downturns. If the weekly rate of growth of online lists crosses a certain value then the probability (there, you can't catch them, can you?) of a downturn would be doubled ... bla ...bla. 

Here is one such list, compiled in my idle hours and one to which I will keep coming back -- updating, revising, adding or subtracting as required. As you can see, it's a list of blogs about Calcutta. I warn you, it may be a complete waste of your precious time, unless, you are one of those without a meaningful preoccupation. So waste your clicks with caution. And if there are many of you out there, then ... you know ...


... our edgy economist friend will be counting your `Likes'.

Disclaimer: Edge City Post is in no way responsible for the content of the blogs linked in the above list. 
Copyright: Image is copyright protected.

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Blurry pic of the week - Cigarette nights

This week's crown goes to this moody image of a cigarette-seller waiting for customers on a Calcutta pavement as Chinese LED lamps light up a festive evening. Picture taken on a basic 3MP mobile phone camera: Model: Samsung Omnia.
Can you recognise the locality? Send us your mobile phone pictures of the city. 
Copyright: Image is copyright protected. 

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Bangalore blowback


Not very long ago I had reviewed Usha K. R.'s Bangalore novel, `Monkey-Man' (Penguin, 2010). The review appeared in the journal Indian Literature (No 259, Sept-Oct 2010) published by Sahitya Akademi, India's national Academy of Letters. Many of us would remember that a `monkey-man' did make an appearance on the Indian scene sometime in 2001, creating mass hysteria, generating media frenzy and finally finding its way into a movie script - Delhi-6. Usha's novel in her own words attempts, `to explore if cities can have a metaphysical presence that parallels its people?' and as she said in a DNA interview, `The monkey man represents the projection of man’s innermost fears and desires.' My review of her novel follows:

The Mind of the Metropolis 

Usha's fourth novel begins with a rush and an expectation. A strange half man half beast, the eponymous Monkey-man, leaps into the face of the reader and the characters, in a south Bangalore neigbourhood, poised on the bleeding edge of fast-changing times. The appearance of this liminal being described as `nasty, brutish and short' by the history teacher Shrinivas Moorty, one of the first to have got a good look at it, creates chaos, confusion and exictement in the city and in the mind of the reader. Riding this wave of excitement that hits Bangalore, the tuned-to-the-times radio jockey Balaji Brahmendra or just Bali Brums to his fans, rustles up a talk show hosting the first three persons to have seen the creature. 


Such an explosive beginning creates a definite set of expectations in the reader's mind. But the author quickly takes it all away from us slipping instead, into the backstories of the characters and the city, which once a Pensioner's Paradise, has rapidly metamorphosed into India's buzzing IT capital. What expectation does an opening of this sort create in our minds? For one, expectations of more fireworks and then a gradual uncovering of the enigma -- the man-beast in this case. A fancy or could one say surreal opening, nudges our hopes in the direction of the magical, the fantastic or even the grotesque. Yet just after a few pages of weaving magic and mayhem, the author begins quietly talking about the past. 

The story meanders back to the times when Moorty and his friend Jairam were studying at National Trust College -- the idealism of their youth, the influence of a teacher who imbibed communist ideals, the world of books, women friends and cinema. Jairam, who finally turned out to be the pragmatic man-of-the-world had more humble beginnings than the conscientious Moorty who never moved too far both materially and ideologically from where he started out. It could be a matter of debate whether Jairam's trajectory from his fiery communist days to those of a sharp-eyed and skillful negotiator for change and progress - he suggests that the college create a new Centre for inter-disciplinary studies and arranges funds to that end - is a movement backward or forward or whether Moorty's apparent stasis is symptomatic of the old order that had kept the country stagnated for decades, but the binariness of these two characters is no doubt one of the themes that echoes in the novel's name and serves as a scaffolding to build its narrative body. 

Both Moorty and Jairam who finally end up teaching in their alma mater, gradually move apart from one another. Moorty largely sticks to his film club and old world values and Jairam turns out the risk-taking, smooth talking, standard bearer for change. Jairam's wife Geeta, who was in college with them, is the tenuous link that keeps the two connected, though barely. 

The other pivotal characters in the novel are the radio jockey Bali Brums, Neela Mary Gopalrao -- secretary to the head of research at the Centre for Socio-Economic Studies and Pushpa Rani who starts out very small but finally lands a call centre job. The lives of all these characters intersect, brush, grate and bump against each other, weaving the complex tapestry of this story while creating the necessary narrative momentum. Yet it could have gone faster. Those looking for a quick-fix entertaining read or a soul stirring trip may not find this book up their way. This is a novel meant for a serious reader who is interested to engage with the recent past, in a quest to better understand the fast-changing present of modern India, while peering through a Bangalorean prism. This of course has its own rewards. 

There are novels which have the feel and tension of white-water rafting, where the scenery changes every moment and the minutes are marked with pulse-throbbing excitement. There is a quieter book, like a country-boat ride, along a wide river with its dreamy currents and little hurry to deliver the next adrenaline rush. Usha's novel is that country boat ride along the apparently calm but often deep waters of a wide Indian river. 

The half a dozen characters of this novel keep returning through their seperate backstories, sometimes grating against each other, as when Bali Brums is subjected to a barrage of questioning by Moorty, when he is invited by Jairam to a college programme. So again Neela Mary Gopalrao, through her sly influence-mongering, keeps Pushpa - once working for the Centre and other colleagues in eternal trouble only to be alleviated by the intrusion of humour in the form of a practical joke played by a smart colleague. 

Bali and Pushpa -- once she has learnt the ropes of the call centre job, are once again representatives of the new world, of a city growing faster than what the human psyche can handle and internalise. Neela Mary Gopalrao on the other hand, herself coming from a mixed background and a complex past is stuck somewhere in between two worlds. She needles those colleagues who can't harm her career or who she cannot fathom, like the researcher Alka Gupta, while she aspires to the attentions of RJ Bali Brums, sending him mails and flirting with him over the airwaves. 

Jairam, Bali and Pushpa on one side and Moorty and Neela to an extent on the other, together create the context for the monkey-man to emerge. Another important character in the novel, the changing city of Bangalore is also the perfect setting for the man-beast to appear; for in that city, the old and the new, the stagnating and the turbocharged, the `less-evolved' and the `advanced', live side by side, with one giving way slowly to the other. If the metropolis has a mind, then the mind of Bangalore (and many other cities of fast-growing urban India) could very well create hallucinatory projections of itself in the form of a subliminal being half human and half simian. In fact such a `monkey-man' did make an appearance on the Indian scene sometime in 2001, creating mass hysteria, generating media frenzy and finally finding its way into a movie script - Delhi 6, sometime back. 

However, this award winning author's aims, it seems are not only to sensationalise the sightings of this creature but to investigate through the medium of the novel, the reason why it appeared and to connect it to the mind of the metropolis and to a time of flux. As she says in a recent interview given to DNA, "The monkey man represents the projection of man’s innermost fears and desires. I want to explore if cities can have a metaphysical presence that parallels its people?” 

As 3rd January, 2000 approaches, the lives of Moorty, Pushpa, Neela and Sukhiya Ram, who is a Class Four staff at the Centre, converge in the region of Ammanagudi Street of Bangalore where they come face to face with this strange creature each giving his or her version of how it looked or what it was. Finally at RJ Bali Brum's talk show, they are invited to tell their stories. Pushpa can't make it but the others do, taking the novel to its climactic moment. 

Just as the present is retold through the radio shows of Bali Brums or the day in the life of a call centre worker, the past of fiery idealism and political engagement is evoked through books, film clubs, Marxist circles, Trotskyite opponents and CIA fronts. So you get a fair sprinkling of Aldous Huxley and Brecht, Fanon and Pather Panchali, George Fernandez and the the Socialist party and many things in between. This might get a bit heavy with new readers not tuned to serious reading or the largely apolitical urban youth of today, but this is where the problem lies and this is what this accomplished author is perhaps trying to tell us through her work. That without a fine sense of balance, that by rushing towards the future while completely forsaking the past, we are ourselves turning into a chimeria of sorts, whose image is reflected in the mirror of the the city around us. 

That is all there is to say about this powerful novel that seeks an involved reader as it tells its tale slowly with care and compassion. In Usha's voice we find an engaging humanity and a compassionate understanding of the failings, foibles, hopes and fears of her characters. She is best when she narrates what drives men and women into doing what they do and through that, how they mould their lives and their future. 

While the advanced economies have been talking about getting bangalored as they lose jobs outsourced to cities like Bangalore, this story is about the blowback that Bangalore herself suffers as she grows at a dizzying pace. What is a little disturbing about this book, is that the monkey-man episode ending up more like a framing device after creating a different set of expectations at the beginning. However the care with which Usha etches her characters and the depths she plumbs to analyse a time of flux, puts her novel in the league of classics that would still be read and enjoyed many years from now.


Copyright: Copyright of this review rests with the author of the review Rajat Chaudhuri and Sahitya Akademi All rights strictly reserved. A slightly edited version of this review has appeared in Indian Literature journal No 259, Sept-Oct 2010, published by Sahitya Akademi. 
Delhi-6 poster courtesy Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Delhi-6.jpg

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

How do you extend your weekend?








What do the denizens of an aspiring global metropolis do in an extended weekend? 


Escape to the nearest getaway of course. Apparently for Delhi it all started with Neemrana Fort Palace [1]



Neemrana fort is about 3 hours drive from central Delhi, falls on Delhi-Jaipur Highway in the state of Rajasthan. It used to be a fort, now a non-hotel hotel. Extremely popular with Delhites, it is a small fort (compared to say an average fort of Rajasthan), now nicely done up and partly closed for general public. Since it is situated on a hill, it offers a great ‘birds eye’ view. For me there was plenty of photo opp and an invitation to sit by the pool with a glass of beer. 



The weather was actually ‘fort-unfriendly’ in the 'extended weekend' in which I visited – terribly hot and humid. I must go back there in a winter afternoon or a summer evening. I have the feeling, it will be fantastic!









[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neemrana

Photos copyright: Sanchita C

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Blurry pic of the week

Edge City Post crowns this mobile pic of a refurbished Calcutta tram taking a turn near Park Circus,  blurry pic of the week. 
Taken on a 2 megapixel plain vanilla Nokia device.

Saturday, August 20, 2011

Urban Island


In the fast developing, ever-changing urban scene of India, there is a growing population of communities living in islandic, secured, organised and comfortable (sometimes luxurious) existence. 



Such gated communities[i] are now a common sight in most Indian cities; more and more people – often salaried professionals - who can afford such accommodation (they don’t come cheap!) are taking up these western-style and what can be also be termed as - isolated - living arrangements. Isolated from the world outside, from all chaos and uncertainties. The gated communities offer a certain lifestyle to upwardly mobile Indian families that suit their outlook. Often situated in the middle of nowhere (usually in the outskirts of a city) or in poorer neighbourhoods, the internal peaceful and orderly environment of these communities are a stark contrast to that of outside. One question pops in the mind whether such secluded existence makes the islandic residents out of touch with reality of their own society and country. Perhaps yes. But the solution cannot be stopping the growth of such communities (at least they offer a solution to housing problems of big cities and retain the people, who would have otherwise moved out, in the country). Improvement of living conditions, better order and improved infrastructure in the world outside urban islands will go a long way in ensuring that islandic residents feel safe and comfortable in integrating with the world outside.    

[i] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gated_community
Photos: Sanchita C
 

Friday, August 19, 2011

Waiting for the Bay of Bongo

Banglar Bagh
Just learned that the state of West Bengal is to be renamed Paschimbanga. Paschimbanga (sometimes Paschim Bangla), which is a literal translation of West Bengal, is a name Bengalis use frequently; and often in a formal conversation. But West Bengal had been equally popular. Years ago I found Kolkata (the capital of West Bengal) taking over from Calcutta, on such a rainy evening, but I like to stick to the old name still. 


Those who supported the change of name have solid logic on their side and sentiments that run deep and wide. I too share some of those and am not too bothered this way or that. But I am quite intrigued by the possibilities, if the rechristening spirit travels further to take into its fold the The Royal Bengal Tiger or perhaps the Bay of Bengal. We already have Bongo-Upasagar for the bay but what about the striped king of the Sunderbans? Will he become the Royal Bongiyo Baghro or something weirder still? The Bay of Bongo sounds musical and as for the tiger we can always slip back to the familiar `Banglar Bagh' (literally the Bengal tiger).


Yet to those who have the power to decide such things I have a small list of street names from Calcutta that I would never like changed. And I have no good logic (see brackets) but just a mixed bag of sentiments to support my case:



Crooked Lane (Baker Street for my private eye*

Goomghar Lane (if you read Bengali you know)
Rosemary Lane (Polanski ... Polanski)
Bonduk Gully (everyone agrees?)
Lovelock Place (rhymes with Havelock Ellis)
Bellilious Lane (ring of the rebellious)
Indian Mirror Street (magically real)
Amratalla Lane (memories of a Sukumar Roy poem)
Waterloo Street (well ...read the first post of this blog)

Do share your wishlist in the comments thread. 


*  Appears in my long story `Asha Masala Bhandar' in the Bengali print magazine Bhashabandhan (May, 2011).
Image courtesy Wikipedia.

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Smoke over London

From the sea of opinion about the recent London riots, Ian Jack's piece in the The Telegraph (Calcutta) today is worth a read. Drawing on reactions from the full length of the political spectrum Jack arrives at his own conclusions through a rigorous analysis where social networking sites, gangster culture, unemployment, an uncertain economic future and the creed of greed all add to  the poisonous kedgeree that many western societies have become. Celebrity lifestyles and the creed of greed is important in his analysis. Here he points out how consumerism and the pressure to become a walking Christmas tree of brands and trends, this lust for the latest defines our times -  ` “Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you who you are,” wrote the French epicure, Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, a maxim since abbreviated to ‘You are what you eat.’ Today, and not just in Britain, you are what you buy — the hippest trainers, the coolest sweatpants, the most fashionable mobile, the cutest handbag, the widest TV screen. You can’t afford them? Then all that separates them from you is a pane of glass. Smash it and you become more like the person you want to be — that advertising (from Nike, Adidas, and so on) suggests you need to be.'  Read the full article at The Telegraph website. 


London map courtesy Google Maps.

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Lightscapes

Howrah bridge (Image courtesy Wikipedia)
So much of a big city are its lights. The lights that you see when the aircraft begins its descent or the shimmering ones on the misty banks of a river – if you are lucky to have one; functioning, extra large and super-size like we have in Calcutta.

Howrah bridge lit golden (Image courtesy Wikipedia) 
Then there are the sodium streetlights, gloomy and orange on the avenues while some roads are washed with the white of mercury vapour. Fluorescent lighting still flickers on the street where I live and each evening the world seems willy-nilly to be caught in the cobwebs of time. What would the journey be like from here onwards? Would we move forward or backwards. I miss the naked filament glow of the tungsten bulb.

Gloomy sodium
To the west Howrah Bridge is decked up with fancy LED lighting that changes color with the mood of the city as does the lights of the Victoria Memorial (green for World Environment Day). The lights that light up this erstwhile capital of British ruled India, during the annual carnival of Durga Puja, call for a new post altogether as does those that serve the purpose of commerce – neon, high contrast displays, window lights. But I won’t venture there unless some Chinese businessman, their so sasta lights are all the rage during the carnival, or a grumbling Dutch multinational offer me a little commission for my efforts.

Till then share pictures of your city of lights.

The lights of commerce

Copyright notice: Images in this post if not otherwise mentioned are copyright RajatC 

Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Blue as a Wet Butterfly

It rained hard for three days. Back to back smart showers. The streets flooded, stalled automobiles sulking in the middle of Central Avenue like retired steeds ready for the knacker’s yard. What joy watching the wind turning umbrellas inside out and the rain throwing city traffic into complete chaos. The world is coming to an end said my booze-buddy and there was no sweeter voice I had heard.

I know the municipality bosses were having a hard time. Sleepless nights running from pumping station to weather station. And if the water -- the slushy, muddy, post-apocalyptic storm water – was flowing into your bedroom, rising ever so slowly, then it wouldn’t have been fun at all. But none the less a carnival was on


But nothing, not even chaos, lasts for ever. It stopped raining from this morning and I am blue as a butterfly. The party is over. It’s back to sunny and sad. No more squelching through the mud, no more fears of electrocution. I know mosquitoes and flies and all kinds of creepy crawlies are having a good time -- orgies and bacchanalia. And soon their freshly raised troops will be launching pincer attacks on our homes and hearth.

The enveloping sadness is thick as your tresses. The rain has stopped. They are all quiet at the bar and the old regular at Olypub is drinking alone tonight.

Monday, August 8, 2011

the city of monuments


the dome of a tomb from inside - typical architecture in such structures found all over Delhi



One thing I like about Delhi is its monuments and the deep sense of history I feel and identify with when going around the city. The City of Djinns[i] had seven cities as ‘predecessors’ before it became what it is now –the capital of India, the eighth city[ii]. The historical structures and archaeological sites bear testimony to Delhi’s illustrious past and its contribution to the history of the Indian subcontinent. From my point of view (and I think for most people), the most interesting and spectacular are the structures from Delhi Sultanate and Mughal eras. Whenever I visit these monuments I am lost. Then I remind myself there are many such structures in Delhi I still haven’t seen!

Sikander Lodi's Tomb - Lodi Garden

[ii] according to some accounts there were 11 successive ancient cities

Saturday, August 6, 2011

a Folk Evening


Went to see performances in a folk music event celebrating the musical traditions of ethnic groups from different forests of India and the role of indigenous communities in protecting forests - organised by the UNDP. A friend who recently moved to India accompanied me. 

There were two performances yesterday - from Manipur and Sunderbans. I liked the music of Manipur (a state in North East India) presented by Rewben Mashangra and his son Sasa[i]. They used a variety of sounds and musical instruments. Mr. Mashangra provided relief between different pieces with his lively commentary and translation. He improvised the music to suit the taste of different kinds of audiences. 

The second performance was in form of Jatra Pala – folk theatre traditionally popular in rural Bengal[ii]. It told the story of Bon Bibi[iii] (lady of the jungle), protector goddess of the jungles of Sunderbans (world's largest mangrove forests, in coastal Bengal) through dialogues and music. This one was less sophisticated, used the kind of instruments they use in such theatre (appeared loud and out of tune) and no translation was provided for the one-hour play. Since I knew the language, I translated the dialogues to my friend. We were among the few audience members, who stayed back till the end. 

All in all, an interesting evening, it was good to be refreshed about the folk traditions of this country.



[i] wasn’t too clear but the presenter seemed to be saying Mashangra is from Nagaland but the music was from Manipur

Delhi Belly - Grunge is Back!


Watched Delhi Belly for the second time today. Awesome shit! When the history of early 21st century Indian cinema is written this spunky, irreverent fix of celluloid karma will surely be marked as a watershed movie. More than half of the credit goes to the obnoxiously talented Akshat Verma who took eighteen long months to write the story. Now that’s a profoundly stupid statement -- someone should chastise me with statistics to show that length of time spent on a script is negatively correlated with a movie's popularity. The other half of the credit (give and take some) lies of course with the actors, the director and all the other folk that worked for this movie. I am trying hard not to name names but the kickass performances of Vir Das, Imran Khan, Kunaal Roy Kapur and Vijay Raaz as well as Ram Sampath’s music are just too good to ignore. Where was this guy hiding when they were composing the youth anthems and the theme songs for the err … high-voltage events?    

Having lived for months in areas that could be considered Delhi’s underbelly -- where the Delhi of Lutyens and Ansal gives way to bleak urban ghettos, sizzling with raw energy -- one could immediately connect with the grunge and the dark humor of this breathless story. I wouldn’t give you even the briefest outline of it and spoil the fun, but below is a Youtube video of a tasting sample. The video is from the theatrical trailer of Delhi Belly. (You might see a pesky little ad at the beginning. Ignore it)



Delhi Belly poster is courtesy Wikipedia. Copyright information on this page.
Video link courtesy Youtube.