...gaga over the urban.

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Gadget (Non)-Queen


It’s been a few weeks since I have written in Edge City Post. My co-blogger wasn’t very happy with that! Well I have been busy – with the festivals (Durga Puja and Diwali and many occasions in between and outside…), enjoying the weather (alas, the pleasant fall in temperature has been accompanied by rise in visible pollution levels in Delhi!), saying goodbyes (both physically – as friends have been moving out of the country - and mentally) and – this is the best part – engrossed in gadgets. I have come to realise tinkering with gadgets have displaced my interactions with people - somewhat.


When did this happen? I always believed I am not fond of machines – I drive a self-owned car because it is convenient (and I refuse to give-up my now-antiquated-car), retain an 8-year old TV because it’s a good ‘timepass’ (to watch Hollywood movies once in a while), listen to music in a non-fancy system because – well I like music a lot, and so on and so forth. When a few years ago a colleague told me that he noticed I am fond of gadgets, I protested.






Lately though I couldn’t help notice I am increasingly drawn to gadgets. So much so now I admit (to myself) I may actually be turning into one of those ‘gadget geeks’.  I have given in to the temptation – changed my outdated portable MP3 player for an iPod classic, bought a second laptop – a MacBook Air, bought a DSLR camera and cool lenses to go with it and there are plans for more…



Why did this happen? Is it because it’s easier to be with gadgets than with people? They don’t talk back so can’t hurt! Is it because these gizmos are a fad now? Have I slipped into the habit of keeping up with Joneses – finally (to the horror of my pretentiously-intellectual-self)? Or is it because these are truly innovative, convenient and fun?



Quite honestly, I still rank near bottom in owning and - more importantly – understanding gadgets. But I am improving! A sign of integration into modernity? May be. I am not worried yet. When these ‘tools’ replace the supposedly more virtuous and fulfilling activities such as reading or writing, I should sell everything and move to a remote village ‘in search of true self’. Ok, joking! But I wouldn’t want any electronic and electrical product to take over my life. They should remain tools designed to amuse and assist. Oh, I still refuse to buy a Kindle or any other e-book reader or an LED high-definition television set ... 
























Anyhow I'll leave you with this blurry photo taken with my new (but a modest) cell phone of few such non-human companions.  




Photos by Sanchita C




Sunday, October 9, 2011

Edgy Aubergine with the Thieves of Time

Holiday over guys! The thieves of your time are back. Back with the one and only show which promises to lead you by your shirttail through seething and sighing city streets and leave you lonely and stranded at particularly troublesome crossings. Which reminds us of the funny Sukumar Roy poem Thikana (The Address) where a man looking for an address is given an elaborate set of instructions which will bring him back right at the point where he started.

Hope you enjoyed your Durga Pujo, Dussehra and whatever else was keeping you away from our irresistible company. We missed you too campers. As for me and my co-blogger, we had been repainting the house (hope you like the font colour) and moving the furniture around (some new gadgets round here) a bit. 

Before I bore you with stuff like route maps shared through GPX files or the mating habits of the mountain goat let me slip in a Sunday recipe. This edgy aubergine number comes from Odisha and we have a poppy seed variation on this one in Bengal. The recipe I tried out today is without poppy seed and believe me it was lip-smacking delicious.

Here is Dahi Baigana[1] for you this Sunday -- I will call it Edgy Aubergine:

Started off with two medium sized aubergines, slicing them into thick, round pieces. Realised that I will need one more. So three aubergines sliced.

Fried the sliced aubergines in sunflower oil to medium brown and kept these aside. For the foron (sometimes translated as tadka in Hindi) I used a generous pinch of mustard seeds, a pinch of cumin seeds and eight to ten curry leaves.

Heating a tablespoon of sunflower oil in another frying pan I put the mustard, cumin and curry leaves in it. As the spices released their wonderful aromas I threw in fresh green chillies (chopped, five) and transferred the fried aubergines to the new frying pan pouring whipped curd (250 gms, Amul) over it, stirring gently.


Covering the pan I let it cook in low heat for around ten minutes. Finally I let my Edgy Aubergine stand for a little while before serving.

Serve with rice or parathas.    

(Add salt to taste. Whip the curd after adding salt to it.)

[1] This is not the copybook version of Dahi Baigana. While the ingredients are the same, I have juggled a little with the classic recipe.   


Copyright: Images and text copyright `Edge City Post' and Rajat Chaudhuri

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Memories of a Perfect Evening

It is 8:10 a.m. - just woke up, it is dark outside, its a weekday and I have to go to work in about half an hour! I looked at the wall clock again and then picked up the mobile phone to reconfirm the time - why is it dark outside? I am in Delhi not Antarctica!! (but I so wish I was) Peeped outside through white translucent curtains: dark clouds crowding the sky, will it rain heavily again?



Last Friday it poured cats and dogs for about 5 hours in the morning, just when people had to leave home for work and threw the traffic out of gear for several hours. There was so much rain that day that I almost forgot I live in a low Monsoon rainfall zone. (see http://www.ndtv.com/video/player/news/heavy-rain-lashes-delhi-office-goers-stranded/210254)





I have to go about my morning chores, otherwise I'll be late for work.... but remember the day this Blog went live? It was raining that day too - I posted a photo of rains then. I will not repeat a photo of that kind. However I'll post photos from an evening in Lodhi Garden: it was in July this year, I was walking about the charming park and practicing my photography skills. Though Monsoons had already begun, the weather that evening was perfect - there are only few such days in Delhi! Why am I posting this today? Because I am pining for an evening like that! Enjoy!!

A piece of my day, a slice of nature



Photos Copyright: Sanchita C

Sunday, September 11, 2011

The Night of the Mystics

Sorting out a year's stash of videos from the hard disk of the vidcam, I chanced upon these recordings from a December (2010) evening that was fading from memory. The occasion was the release of a book (Sailing on the Sea of Love: The Music of the Bauls of Bengal by Charles Capwell, Seagull Books) followed by presentations and an hour and half of fakiri and baul songs at the Town Hall, Calcutta. It had been a terrible week of missed deadlines and avoidable misunderstandings at office and luckily our good friend Ad (one of the organisers) had given me a pass. `Baul music is like medicine’ Ad had said and really one needed no convincing for I had long been fascinated by the music of the mystic minstrels of Bengal.

The first clip shows the performance of Golam Fakir of Murshidabad. His song is about music uniting all religions. The baul with ektara in the video below is Biswanath Das singing - `Ami jar jonye pagol, tarey pelam koi?’ in his inimitable moody style.

Tomes have been written about the syncretism of bauls and fakirs and the crowds at baul melas often outnumber audiences of rock concerts. The tenets of Dehatatya, which is the scaffolding on which the baul way of life is built, finds echoes in Tantra and other teachings at the margins of mainstream religions. In a time when there is a sharpening of the rhetoric of radicals, when the thunder of hardliners pierces our ears and our souls, the philosophy of these smiling mystics who make a sweet music with their duggis and ektaras comes like welcome rain after a parched summer's day.     

I drank deep and as my friend had promised -- like magic potion it did work!

Joy guru! 

Copyright: Videos, images and text copyright: RajatC, Full-length edited videos will be uploaded on Youtube soon.

(k)night animals





In any big city, one species of creatures is always available. The ones who stay up in the night and sleep in the day.



Obviously I am not talking about bats of any form (this is not a wildlife blog but I may start one any time!). The ones I am referring to roam around the streets in their (often funky and expensive) cars (sometimes they walk but not in the city I live in) and fashionable clothes (often you will spot someone like me in there: dressed like a vagabond), and frequent (some times jump from one to another) nightclubs and bars throughout a night (or at least till night time joints are not closed).
They drink like fish, eat like pigs and dance like mad. They have the money to splurge, willingness to go out every time an occasion arises and energy to continue this routine night after night.




In rare cases some some such creatures turn out to be vultures - they pounce on opposite (or perhaps also same) members of gender whenever one such victim look available or lost. On the positive side, there is possibility of meeting a shining knight (or a gracious lady) among these night creatures.




Of course you may also find a lost soul hidden in such a crowd, trying to mend a broken heart or forget a troublesome life.




Traditional societies condemn this kind of life but growing urbanisation and consumerism have simply ensured that more and more young people are brought into the fold of urban night life.



Yet these creatures and such lifestyle make urban life look interesting and attractive. After all we all like to let our hair down once in a while and let go when things weigh us down. And what's the harm - as long as things go back to normal the next day, the night out was just another of many activities we indulged in!












Tagore at the Traffic Light

Rabindranath Tagore
There is a song on every lip. Well not quite, but if you are lucky to be in Calcutta this time of the year you can hear songs playing at every street corner, at traffic lights to be precise. While this is a smart way to celebrate the 150th birth anniversary of Rabindranath the added decibels at the traffic crossings have begun to prick some eardrums and bump up readings of the crib-o-meter. 


It's not difficult to empathise with the streetside tea shop guy who has to brave endless repeats of a bunch of songs from the Nobel laureate poet's formidable repertoire of more than 2500 -- even the sweetest ballad can be done to death by repetition or a crappy music player going at full blast -- yet on the balance this is a welcome break from the cacophony of the streets. 

A Tagore poster at Mission Row, Calcutta
To those who say that the songs only add to the cacophony, sorry we don't agree. To an arch-romantic like this blogger, and I am sure, to millions of kobita-crazy fellow Kolkatans, the songs of the bard are more balm than bruise when navigating the raucous streets of this city. 

We do feel for the hapless cha-wallah but in a democracy it's numbers that speak and the good of the many will always steal a march over the grief of a few. 


Ludwig van Beethoven
Before Tagore took over the `traffic-music' scene, pedestrians in Calcutta were greeted with a virtuoso burst of Beethoven (Fur Elise) at street crossings, each time the lights changed. Yet it did not ruffle feathers or set on fire newspaper column-centimeters. There is sure a lesson to be learnt there: Let the music play but also grant us breaks from hour to hour and please don't pump up the volume to maximum. It's much more pleasant that way. As for those who would still hold a grudge, we advise them to keep a safe distance from tuneful traffic lights. 
... and quietly on their iPods play:
`Kolahol to baron holo, Ebar kotha kaane kaane
ekhon hobe praner alap, kebolmatro gaane gaane ... '
as many times as their hearts desire.


Copyright notice: Tagore black and white image is from Wikipedia at this link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Tagore3.jpg (Creative Commons)
Beethoven color image is from wikipedia here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Beethoven.jpg (Creative Commons)

Other images in this post are copyright RajatC 

Friday, September 2, 2011

Buildings, buildings


Connaught Place, Delhi

One of many buildings in Bangalore with colonial-type architecture














One thing I like to do when I am traveling and driving through to a city is to take photos of city buildings. So if you are lucky, you may be able to spot me some time sitting in a taxi and clicking away happily (!). What attract me mainly are old and historical buildings but honestly I like to capture any striking building.

Falling apart, a building in Kolkata



I feel sad that many old buildings are suffering badly from lack of repair and maintenance. Some of these will need to be torn down as they are already in pretty bad condition. In fact many old buildings (some really old, of historical importance) in Indian cities have been torn down.

Another one from Kolkata













Even now, buildings which are not formally recognised as of historical or archeological importance are being ‘put down’ and replaced by residential of commercial complexes. I am sentimental about these things.




From 25 years old buildings to 1000s years old structures - all are in danger of being brought down. The house I used to live in Safdarjung Enclave, Delhi until 5 months ago has been torn down and being replaced by a sparkling new apartment building.

A Kolkata building

























My own family home – in the outskirts of Kolkata – has a very old foundation: 70-80 or perhaps 100 years old, though portions have been added over the years. I hope I manage to keep it because the temptation to ‘give’ it to a builder and move to a low-maintenance and compact apartment is very strong.



My family home


These are a few photos of buildings I have clicked during my journeys.

A building from Lutyen's Delhi





Old but with a fresh coat of paint, Kolkata


Part of a huge building on Park Street, Kolkata

a Church in Bangalore



Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Are our Cities Looking the Same?

A budding urban industrial area; Photo: Sanchita C

Mad traffic rush that has grown rapidly in a city once known for its trees and gardens but subsequently caught by surprise at this rapid development, car stickers and banners proudly proclaiming their support for Anna Hazare and sprawling malls and new buildings – could be any Indian city or town in the present time.

In fact, I was driving around (rather being driven around) in an SUV in Bangalore last week. While I was listening to my friend listing out the problems the city - rather citizens of the city - are facing, it struck me I could be in any city in India. The problems would be similar, so could be the look and feel of the place.

Can you tell the city?; Photo: Sanchita C
many such buildings come up every year; Photo: Sanchita C
As if urban deities (are there any?) have decided that Indian cities shall grow in harmony in the 21st century (albeit haphazardly) - for good or bad. Honestly I can’t say any longer whether I like any city more than another because characteristic distinctions between the cities of India  seem to be vanishing rapidly.

Or are they? Well culturally yes (my very personal view of course) but not necessarily politically (different cities have specific political mindsets) or economically (some cities have more of certain industries or economic activities than the others, some are more prosperous).


Bangalore 'skyline'; Photo: Sanchita C 

After Bangalore, I was in Kolkata and after that Delhi. By the end of the journey, I was even more convinced differences are evaporating – people dress up the same way, speak a kind of urban Indian lingo (same words, same expressions), buildings have similar architecture etc. I have not decided yet whether it is for good or bad. Do we really want a highly harmonised society in all respects?


What do you think? 


Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Those like us - Calcutta blogs

One of the symptoms of disguised unemployment is to be observed in the propensity to create lists. In that not so distant future, when our words will be considered wisdom, economists (sweet revenge!) will count the number of lists on the internet, to predict imminent downturns. If the weekly rate of growth of online lists crosses a certain value then the probability (there, you can't catch them, can you?) of a downturn would be doubled ... bla ...bla. 

Here is one such list, compiled in my idle hours and one to which I will keep coming back -- updating, revising, adding or subtracting as required. As you can see, it's a list of blogs about Calcutta. I warn you, it may be a complete waste of your precious time, unless, you are one of those without a meaningful preoccupation. So waste your clicks with caution. And if there are many of you out there, then ... you know ...


... our edgy economist friend will be counting your `Likes'.

Disclaimer: Edge City Post is in no way responsible for the content of the blogs linked in the above list. 
Copyright: Image is copyright protected.

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Blurry pic of the week - Cigarette nights

This week's crown goes to this moody image of a cigarette-seller waiting for customers on a Calcutta pavement as Chinese LED lamps light up a festive evening. Picture taken on a basic 3MP mobile phone camera: Model: Samsung Omnia.
Can you recognise the locality? Send us your mobile phone pictures of the city. 
Copyright: Image is copyright protected. 

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Bangalore blowback


Not very long ago I had reviewed Usha K. R.'s Bangalore novel, `Monkey-Man' (Penguin, 2010). The review appeared in the journal Indian Literature (No 259, Sept-Oct 2010) published by Sahitya Akademi, India's national Academy of Letters. Many of us would remember that a `monkey-man' did make an appearance on the Indian scene sometime in 2001, creating mass hysteria, generating media frenzy and finally finding its way into a movie script - Delhi-6. Usha's novel in her own words attempts, `to explore if cities can have a metaphysical presence that parallels its people?' and as she said in a DNA interview, `The monkey man represents the projection of man’s innermost fears and desires.' My review of her novel follows:

The Mind of the Metropolis 

Usha's fourth novel begins with a rush and an expectation. A strange half man half beast, the eponymous Monkey-man, leaps into the face of the reader and the characters, in a south Bangalore neigbourhood, poised on the bleeding edge of fast-changing times. The appearance of this liminal being described as `nasty, brutish and short' by the history teacher Shrinivas Moorty, one of the first to have got a good look at it, creates chaos, confusion and exictement in the city and in the mind of the reader. Riding this wave of excitement that hits Bangalore, the tuned-to-the-times radio jockey Balaji Brahmendra or just Bali Brums to his fans, rustles up a talk show hosting the first three persons to have seen the creature. 


Such an explosive beginning creates a definite set of expectations in the reader's mind. But the author quickly takes it all away from us slipping instead, into the backstories of the characters and the city, which once a Pensioner's Paradise, has rapidly metamorphosed into India's buzzing IT capital. What expectation does an opening of this sort create in our minds? For one, expectations of more fireworks and then a gradual uncovering of the enigma -- the man-beast in this case. A fancy or could one say surreal opening, nudges our hopes in the direction of the magical, the fantastic or even the grotesque. Yet just after a few pages of weaving magic and mayhem, the author begins quietly talking about the past. 

The story meanders back to the times when Moorty and his friend Jairam were studying at National Trust College -- the idealism of their youth, the influence of a teacher who imbibed communist ideals, the world of books, women friends and cinema. Jairam, who finally turned out to be the pragmatic man-of-the-world had more humble beginnings than the conscientious Moorty who never moved too far both materially and ideologically from where he started out. It could be a matter of debate whether Jairam's trajectory from his fiery communist days to those of a sharp-eyed and skillful negotiator for change and progress - he suggests that the college create a new Centre for inter-disciplinary studies and arranges funds to that end - is a movement backward or forward or whether Moorty's apparent stasis is symptomatic of the old order that had kept the country stagnated for decades, but the binariness of these two characters is no doubt one of the themes that echoes in the novel's name and serves as a scaffolding to build its narrative body. 

Both Moorty and Jairam who finally end up teaching in their alma mater, gradually move apart from one another. Moorty largely sticks to his film club and old world values and Jairam turns out the risk-taking, smooth talking, standard bearer for change. Jairam's wife Geeta, who was in college with them, is the tenuous link that keeps the two connected, though barely. 

The other pivotal characters in the novel are the radio jockey Bali Brums, Neela Mary Gopalrao -- secretary to the head of research at the Centre for Socio-Economic Studies and Pushpa Rani who starts out very small but finally lands a call centre job. The lives of all these characters intersect, brush, grate and bump against each other, weaving the complex tapestry of this story while creating the necessary narrative momentum. Yet it could have gone faster. Those looking for a quick-fix entertaining read or a soul stirring trip may not find this book up their way. This is a novel meant for a serious reader who is interested to engage with the recent past, in a quest to better understand the fast-changing present of modern India, while peering through a Bangalorean prism. This of course has its own rewards. 

There are novels which have the feel and tension of white-water rafting, where the scenery changes every moment and the minutes are marked with pulse-throbbing excitement. There is a quieter book, like a country-boat ride, along a wide river with its dreamy currents and little hurry to deliver the next adrenaline rush. Usha's novel is that country boat ride along the apparently calm but often deep waters of a wide Indian river. 

The half a dozen characters of this novel keep returning through their seperate backstories, sometimes grating against each other, as when Bali Brums is subjected to a barrage of questioning by Moorty, when he is invited by Jairam to a college programme. So again Neela Mary Gopalrao, through her sly influence-mongering, keeps Pushpa - once working for the Centre and other colleagues in eternal trouble only to be alleviated by the intrusion of humour in the form of a practical joke played by a smart colleague. 

Bali and Pushpa -- once she has learnt the ropes of the call centre job, are once again representatives of the new world, of a city growing faster than what the human psyche can handle and internalise. Neela Mary Gopalrao on the other hand, herself coming from a mixed background and a complex past is stuck somewhere in between two worlds. She needles those colleagues who can't harm her career or who she cannot fathom, like the researcher Alka Gupta, while she aspires to the attentions of RJ Bali Brums, sending him mails and flirting with him over the airwaves. 

Jairam, Bali and Pushpa on one side and Moorty and Neela to an extent on the other, together create the context for the monkey-man to emerge. Another important character in the novel, the changing city of Bangalore is also the perfect setting for the man-beast to appear; for in that city, the old and the new, the stagnating and the turbocharged, the `less-evolved' and the `advanced', live side by side, with one giving way slowly to the other. If the metropolis has a mind, then the mind of Bangalore (and many other cities of fast-growing urban India) could very well create hallucinatory projections of itself in the form of a subliminal being half human and half simian. In fact such a `monkey-man' did make an appearance on the Indian scene sometime in 2001, creating mass hysteria, generating media frenzy and finally finding its way into a movie script - Delhi 6, sometime back. 

However, this award winning author's aims, it seems are not only to sensationalise the sightings of this creature but to investigate through the medium of the novel, the reason why it appeared and to connect it to the mind of the metropolis and to a time of flux. As she says in a recent interview given to DNA, "The monkey man represents the projection of man’s innermost fears and desires. I want to explore if cities can have a metaphysical presence that parallels its people?” 

As 3rd January, 2000 approaches, the lives of Moorty, Pushpa, Neela and Sukhiya Ram, who is a Class Four staff at the Centre, converge in the region of Ammanagudi Street of Bangalore where they come face to face with this strange creature each giving his or her version of how it looked or what it was. Finally at RJ Bali Brum's talk show, they are invited to tell their stories. Pushpa can't make it but the others do, taking the novel to its climactic moment. 

Just as the present is retold through the radio shows of Bali Brums or the day in the life of a call centre worker, the past of fiery idealism and political engagement is evoked through books, film clubs, Marxist circles, Trotskyite opponents and CIA fronts. So you get a fair sprinkling of Aldous Huxley and Brecht, Fanon and Pather Panchali, George Fernandez and the the Socialist party and many things in between. This might get a bit heavy with new readers not tuned to serious reading or the largely apolitical urban youth of today, but this is where the problem lies and this is what this accomplished author is perhaps trying to tell us through her work. That without a fine sense of balance, that by rushing towards the future while completely forsaking the past, we are ourselves turning into a chimeria of sorts, whose image is reflected in the mirror of the the city around us. 

That is all there is to say about this powerful novel that seeks an involved reader as it tells its tale slowly with care and compassion. In Usha's voice we find an engaging humanity and a compassionate understanding of the failings, foibles, hopes and fears of her characters. She is best when she narrates what drives men and women into doing what they do and through that, how they mould their lives and their future. 

While the advanced economies have been talking about getting bangalored as they lose jobs outsourced to cities like Bangalore, this story is about the blowback that Bangalore herself suffers as she grows at a dizzying pace. What is a little disturbing about this book, is that the monkey-man episode ending up more like a framing device after creating a different set of expectations at the beginning. However the care with which Usha etches her characters and the depths she plumbs to analyse a time of flux, puts her novel in the league of classics that would still be read and enjoyed many years from now.


Copyright: Copyright of this review rests with the author of the review Rajat Chaudhuri and Sahitya Akademi All rights strictly reserved. A slightly edited version of this review has appeared in Indian Literature journal No 259, Sept-Oct 2010, published by Sahitya Akademi. 
Delhi-6 poster courtesy Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Delhi-6.jpg

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

How do you extend your weekend?








What do the denizens of an aspiring global metropolis do in an extended weekend? 


Escape to the nearest getaway of course. Apparently for Delhi it all started with Neemrana Fort Palace [1]



Neemrana fort is about 3 hours drive from central Delhi, falls on Delhi-Jaipur Highway in the state of Rajasthan. It used to be a fort, now a non-hotel hotel. Extremely popular with Delhites, it is a small fort (compared to say an average fort of Rajasthan), now nicely done up and partly closed for general public. Since it is situated on a hill, it offers a great ‘birds eye’ view. For me there was plenty of photo opp and an invitation to sit by the pool with a glass of beer. 



The weather was actually ‘fort-unfriendly’ in the 'extended weekend' in which I visited – terribly hot and humid. I must go back there in a winter afternoon or a summer evening. I have the feeling, it will be fantastic!









[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neemrana

Photos copyright: Sanchita C